I gave Brian a couple days notice about my desire to do this hike before the reservation window went live. I simply asked if he was down to hike and camp in one of the most beautiful locations in all of the southwest USA and he didn’t hesitate in saying yes (true love right there). It’s 7:10am on February 1st and I finally realize that I actually managed to snag a reservation for three days—amounting to about $500 for two people (there are different costs depending on how many days you’re there, whether they’re weekend days or week days, and how many people are in your group)—I was overjoyed, though my wallet was a bit sad. I realized later that day that the reservations sold out in half an hour FOR THE ENTIRE YEAR. It’s not an exaggeration to say we were lucky (and that the cost is worth it)!

[DISCLAIMER: this trip was conducted in the year of our lord 2018, so rules/prices on reservations might have changed since then! And there are quite a few rules that the Havasupai Tribe has in place that you are required to follow—so read up and be respectful!]

So fast forward to March and we’re leaving from our respective homes in Long Beach, CA. Brian and I set off into the beautiful Southern California desert excited to hit the road.

HOT TIP: I highly recommend that if you’re buying new camping gear—especially backpacking gear—that you test it out before your grand adventure! We went out camping and hiking a few weekends before doing the Havasupai Hike to get used to our backpacks, make sure we could handle the weights with all our gear, and were happy with our sleeping arrangements. It definitely set us up for success on the main mission! Also (if you’re based in the USA) I cannot recommend REI enough for your source of hiking/camping gear. Plus always be on the lookout for used or second-hand gear!

Arriving at the Havasupai Trailhead parking lot just after sunset, we quickly chose a parking spot to spend the night in. We cuddled up into our mobile sleeping spot we had prepared beforehand in the back of Brian’s Toyota 4Runner — putting the back seats down and adding a cushion and our sleeping bags. We had an early wake up call in the morning to try and beat any kind of trail rush or high heat.

The alarm we had set went off at 6AM as the sunrise was bathing the canyon in a pink-orange glow. Our mission — 10 miles in and 10 miles out (with an added 9 mile day hike on our rest day because one cannot rest when glacial waterfalls abound)! Also, for reference, our trip was in mid-March and the desert can still get pretty cold. That night it got to around 32 degrees! So simple layers are a must.

Before locking the car up for the weekend and setting off, we first had to verify we both had arguably our most important elements — our IDs and the credit card used for the reservation! When you reach the village you’re supposed to verify your reservation and the only way to do that is with an ID, proof of registration form, and credit card. I had also read that there’s a chance you could be stopped during your hike to ask for your proof of registration or ID so definitely don’t try and hike in without those!!

We then weighed our backpacks one last time. Mine coming out to around 25 lbs. and Brian’s about 30 lbs. Though a good amount of that weight is the recommended 2 liters of water you should bring with you, as there are no refill points until the campground.

Look at these happy campers!

Somewhere along those 10 miles the environment starts to shift. From rust red canyon walls to what begins to feel like an oasis in the desert. Lush green foliage begins to appear and the sound of running water. At about the 8 mile mark you reach Supai Village—an isolated village that can only be reached by foot, horse, or helicopter. This land is owned and operated by the Havasupai Tribe. This is their land and we are allowed to come as respectful guests.

“For over 1,000 years the remote village of Supai, Arizona, located eight miles hike below the rim of the Grand Canyon, has been home to the Havasu Baaja, People of the Blue Green Waters, or as they are known today, the Havasupai Tribe. Just above the village, a hidden limestone aquifer gushes forth the life sustaining blue green waters that have nourished the fields of corn, squash and beans which have allowed the Havasu Baaja to thrive living in the harsh desert landscape deep in the Grand Canyon for centuries. This remoteness creates many obstacles for residents and visitors alike. The United States Postal Service office in Supai transports all mail in and out of the canyon by mule train. Everything must make the 8 mile trek in and out of the village either by foot, on horseback.”

Once in Supai Village there’s a General Store you can stop at if there’s anything you might need. For Brian and I it was acquiring what I call “Victory Snacks”— particular food items to reward yourself with at the end of the hike. For me that meant Nacho Cheese Doritos and a Glacial Blue Gatorade, the blue-green water in the area made me suddenly crave it. There were also two adorably friendly weeny dogs at the store (pictured above). Then as you walk further into the town you have to check-in with the Havasupai Tourist Office — this is where having your IDs, the proof of reservation form, and credit card are crucial!

Then it was back to the task at hand—

This hike is absolutely beautiful and I can honestly say I loved every second, but I must stress that it is DIFFICULT. And I have to add that Brian and I are both physically fit individuals, running miles daily and doing weighted workouts multiple times a week. You see that picture on the above right? My hips were aching, legs cramping, and my tired face was having none of Brian’s picture taking. Hiking distances with a heavy backpack is no joke. The thought that we were within a mile of the campground kept me going!

Something I had not been prepared for beforehand was the amount of heartbreak I would feel anytime a horse caravan would pass us on the trail. I had focused more on reading about what gear to bring — not about ways to force animals to carry that gear for me. Because yes, you can pay a fee to have a horse or mule cart your gear the 20 total miles in and out for you. And as much as that extra revenue may help the native population that owns and operates camping in the valley, I don’t think it’s worth the obviously torturous labor these creatures go through. If you can’t carry your own gear in and out as a camper/hiker then I don’t believe you should be allowed to go—end of story. Each time we saw a person with just a simple day pack on I wanted to yell at them, “Look at the suffering your laziness is creating!” Mentally prepare yourself for these sights ahead of time and for the love of God CARRY YOUR OWN SHIT OR GTFO.

We wandered through the campsite searching out any particular spot that called our names. The water continues to flow from Havasupai Falls, snaking it’s way through the campsite and overflowing at the next waterfall, Mooney Falls. We settled on a spot across an adorably rickety wooden bridge, and pitched our home for the next two nights! This two person REI tent has served us well over the years. It should also be noted that there are multiple environmentally friendly compost toilets located around the campgrounds. Ultimately, I cannot describe to you the joy of sitting down and taking my hiking boots off—let’s just say it was better than the victory Doritos!

In total it took us approximately 5 hours to hike from the Havasupai Trailhead to the campsite so we arrived before noon. This time of year (again, it’s mid-March) the sun begins to hit the campground valley around 10AM and stays out until about 2PM—really good to keep in mind because the water here, even though it stays at 70 degrees Fahrenheit all year round, can be pretty cold when the sun disappears and the temperatures drop. But having made it in perfect time, we quickly popped on our swim suits to truly soak (literally) in the majesty of the falls!

We noticed that there was a small Fry Bread stand in the campground that happened to be open and we couldn’t pass up the opportunity to try out a famous Indian Taco — all the insides of a typical taco on a disc of delicious fry bread. So we quickly went back to our humble abode to dry off and change into some dryer, warmer clothes before grabbing some grub. The Indian Taco gets five stars from us!

Then it was back to camp to raise our ENO hammocks and get some reading and relaxing in. Brian’s whole family raised him on playing cribbage so of course at this point I’ve been inducted into the tradition. We got a small travel cribbage board especially for this trip and we definitely made use of it (I won in case y’all were wondering)!

After my cribbage domination we went on a walk around the campgrounds, coming to the end of the camp-able area when we reached the massive Mooney Falls—which I’d honestly say I enjoyed more than Havasupai Falls! You stand at the top of an unguarded 210 ft red rock cliff, your heart racing in your chest at the height. We sat here watching this big daddy waterfall until darkness started to settle in and we called it a night.

What a glorious first day in this land!

Our day two goal was to do a day hike down to Beaver Falls, which lies about 4 miles from the campgrounds, which came out to about 9 miles roundtrip. To get to the otherworldly tiered Beaver Falls you must first descend to the base of Mooney Falls. At the top of Mooney Falls there’s a wooden sign that says for all to see — DESCEND AT OWN RISK. And it’s not there for spooks, it’s a genuine warning. To get to the base of Mooney Falls you must climb down rickety ladders attached to the cliffs with chains and spikes, slick with the mist from the water giant raging beside you. It honestly feels like a scene from Indiana Jones, and I would do it again in a heartbeat. I will say though it’s not for the faint-hearted and I wouldn’t recommend it for children, but as a rock climber with good physical health it was a blast.

It’s surprising what a 9 mile hike with a day pack compared to a 10 mile hike with a 25 lbs backpack feels like. It is truly amazing what copious amounts of water, food, and a good nights sleep can do for the human body as far as recovery. Plus it turns out a 9 mile day hike is a breeze if you’re not weighted down with a massive backpack! We retraced our path back to the base of Mooney Falls and had to wait at the base for a few minutes while some other hikers descended the ladders on the only path in and out of that level of the canyon.

Upon arrival at our personal oasis we had another five star meal of instant mac n’ cheese with a cheesy Dorito crumble (getting a lot of mileage on these victory Doritos). You should definitely be bringing along some freeze dried food baggies — but remember to pack out ALL the trash you bring into the canyon. We brought two different Mountain House brand food baggies: Mexican Style Rice (5 stars), and Mac N’ Cheese (5 stars). Both baggies containing at least 2 servings each. I’m starting to think I’m an easily pleased food reviewer giving everything five stars all the time…but when you’re hiking so much any food is good food.